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Lights out for theatrical restaurant Ele by Federico & Karl at The Star

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

In a blow to the pointy end of Sydney dining, Ele by Federico & Karl will serve its last $225 per head degustation on Saturday night. Equal parts fine diner and art installation, the luxe restaurant at The Star was one of the more adventurous openings in recent years.

“Unfortunately, following a very challenging year in the hospitality industry and the nationwide pressures on cost of living, we have made the decision to close … the final service will be taking place on Saturday the third of June,” a message to customers with upcoming bookings explained.

Dinner and a (light) show: projections inside the Ele dining room.
Dinner and a (light) show: projections inside the Ele dining room.Christopher Pearce

When Ele opened in April 2022, it had a hard act to follow, sliding into the space where Sydney gastronomic temple Momofuku Seiobo reigned for nearly a decade. It had the ingredients for success: Ele was the brainchild of Federico Zanellato from the cutting-edge LuMi, and Karl Firla, the one-time owner-chef at Oscillate Wildly.

Ele, short for elements, ushered diners through three stages in a two-hour experience, which included an immersive room with art projections and moody electronic music.

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Clockwise from top left: sunrise to sunset; potato millefeuille, smoked cod brandade; chardonnay fresh to frozen; ocean; marron two ways; rice chip, scarlet prawn.
Clockwise from top left: sunrise to sunset; potato millefeuille, smoked cod brandade; chardonnay fresh to frozen; ocean; marron two ways; rice chip, scarlet prawn.Christopher Pearce; Supplied

While there were some early hurdles with service, the food seemingly found its voice quickly. In a May 2022 review, critic Callan Boys described the butter-poached marron as “one of the most aggressively delicious things I’ve encountered this year, largely thanks to an accompanying custard made from the ‘mustard’ found in the crustacean’s head”.

Trading conditions didn’t help Ele, however, and one industry operator opined that the dinner-and-a-show approach made it more of a one-off experience.

It hasn’t been a great year for casinos either. In an ASX announcement in April, The Star said its current earnings performance was “at unprecedented low levels (excluding the COVID-19 period)” and that it was battling other factors, including an emerging weakness in consumer spending.

Good Food has reached out to Zanellato, Firla and The Star for comment.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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